Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Jasper-- it's beauty, it's niceness, and it's... mountain goats!

Geez, am I still on the road? It's been 8 days since leaving Seward and today was the first day I thought to myself "I might be over this road trip". We're only about 9 hours away from our final destination (or so we think/hope) in Coeur d'Alene, ID. But, there is two beautiful last stops on the way! Jasper and Banff National Parks in Alberta, Canada. This whole drive has been absolutely gorgeous and unique! We've covered mountain ranges, deep valleys, the grand parries of Canada, but my favorite so far has been the beautiful mountain ranges and Jasper has some of the greatest! The Canadian Rockies are amazing!
Our view from the first place we stayed.
We got here late last night when it was dark out and we'd somehow crossed two times zones so instead of being 7pm it was 9pm... (still not sure what time it really is here). After spending way too much on a room, we watched an episode of breaking bad (it was way to intense for me!) and fell asleep! After waking up and seeing how beautiful Jasper was in the day light we decided we wanted to stay an extra night, but needed to do so a little more frugally. We found a big list of private accommodations in the visitors center and found a room for only $65, DONE! After asking around a bit, we found a popular day hike (that wasn't closed for Grizzly Bear sightings)  called Sulphur Ridge. It was about a 45 minute drive to get to the trailhead and surrounded by beauty!

On the trek up.

This is my "It's a bear!!!" run

Some views from the way up.
The hike was about 6 miles total and we took our time going up and down. Once we were about half way, the views were breath taking! Huge mountain faces and big valleys (which we think were carved by glaciers!) were within sight most of the trek up. As we twinkled toe'd up the mountain (I had my bear bell on my shoe to make some noise), we found a great resting spot to have some water and enjoy more spectacular views! Sitting towards and looking North, we heard some rustling in the trees...both David and I thought "Oh crap, it's a bear"....In my mind, I try to think of all the bear safety techniques you learn hiking...

As we turn around, we find it is not a bear, but a herd of about a dozen mountain goats! There were some adults and some little babies which were so cute! One of them started to walk off away from us and I assumed that once we made some noise they would all scurry off. But these mountain goats must of been hungry or really used to people because one came right up to us. We got a little freaked out and David pulled out the bear spray just in case it was going to charge us, but luckily we started to walk off and it didn't follow.
The Goats

Creeping in...

Closer...
CLOSER...
TOO CLOSE!
We continued to make our way to the top of the ridge and the last little bit was the steepest. It has been 7 days since I've even raised my heart beat or got any exercise so I was feeling pretty  out of shape, but finally we made it up! The views from the top were some of the most amazing I've ever seen! Miles and miles and miles of mountains all spilled out in all directions. It was really neat to be able to look down onto trees and see for miles while imagining what this place was like 10,000 years ago! All and all the hike was amazing! The views and the chance to finally get some exercise.

Getting to the top!





After our hike we headed into the little townsite of Jasper to check things out and grab a bite. We ended  up getting some burgers and delicious Guiness. After stuffing ourselves, we walked around, checked out the local gift shops, I drooled over all the maple syrup, and got some maple sweets! We can't get over how nice Canadian people are...seriously, they are the nicest folk around! Anyways, we are tired and need some rest! We are going to head to Banff tomorrow which is only about a 4 hour drive, but there is lots to see on the way!

Jaspers beautiful gift to us tonight!

Hope you are all doing great! And I will have my cell phone on again once we are back in the states in a few days!

Lots of love!

Jillian

Monday, September 23, 2013

Snow, Bison, and More Hot Springs

Each day of this road trip is beautiful. From most memories I have of road trips as a kid, all I can remember is being impatient, fitting with my sister about how had more room on the sides of my brothers car seat, and every 10  minutes asking my parents the dreaded question of "are we there yet?". However, as most things go, road trips change a bit as you get older (and I'd like to think myself as wiser, but that's debatable..). This road trip was created and planned (or lack there of) with adventure and excitement in mind. And so far after 5 days on the road have been just that. After chasing the Northern Lights, we've made out way to Liard Hot Springs in Canada. I'm not sure whether it's Yukon or B.C because the AlCan weaves in and out of both. 

In the last two days, we've experienced a lot and I feel myself settling into the traveling more and more, letting go of worries. Two night ago, we crossed the Alaska boarder into yukon territory, Canada, saw a bear cross the road, and found a spot to camp. It was pretty flippin  cold as we set up camp and after my rainy camping experience  on guide trip with exit glacier guides, I felt like I needed to toughen up and stick this one out (even though I really didn't want to!). We had plenty of blankets and stuff in the car so we made our tent snug as could be inside with blankets, down jackets and a big down comforter. Also, I tried to recreate a tarp structure I had watched my exit glacier friends put together a week earlier. It turned out not as impressive, but would do the job to keep our tent dry as possible. We made it through the night and when we woke, we were greeted by snow! Brrrr! We packed up as quick as we could and got in the car & were on our way to Whitehorse! 
                 Our campsite we woke up to...
We arrived in Whitehorse and had an earlier dinner and a resturaunt in a hotel (recommended by the people we bought salmon from on the side of the road). We ate our meals and I wondered how much it would be to stay there for the night (we planned on getting a place to crash because our camp gear was wet from the snow). Turned out, it was only $100/night or $120/ night for a room with a jacuzzi! So the choice was obvious! We ran upstairs and we in disbelief how nice the hotel was! We felt like a king and queen! The room was complete with king size bed, fire place, couch and chairs, big tv, bath robes, and of course the jacuzzi! We lounged, soaked, let our camp gear dry out, and relaxed the rest of the day and night! We woke up late, made tea and coffee and checked out from the beautiful place. I was so grateful for the warm dry and cozzy place to stay!

                  David with the big Canadian! 
    Lounging while watching cartoons! 

After leaving paradise, it was onward to the longest stretch of the journey. It is 23ish hours of driving from Whitehorse to Jasper. We covered about 7ish hours the first day. We made a stop in Watson Lake when a peculiar park caught my eye. It was made out of old license plates and street signs. It was really neat to stroll around looking at the different places seeing places we knew and ones we've never been to! After strolling and having lunch it was back in the road to our stop for the night Liard Hot Springs! 

              Street sign alley (i just gave it that name) ;)
        In front of 2 Idaho signs-Riggins & Lewiston! 
          David found his home town! Sierra Vista, AZ
                          Wandering around
We continued on the AlCan and saw a big warning sign for buffalo on the highway. Sure enough we saw lots! We even saw baby buffalo! It was so neat, these things are huge! 
       One of the pictures that we tried to take! Buffalo butt!
  By Liard River, fall is is full swing up here and it's beautiful! 

We made it to Liard Hot Springs, got a camp ground and took a nice relaxing soak in the hot springs! I was relieved that the temperatures here are not as cold! So snow shouldnt be an issue! :)

Time for bed! Long day of driving ahead! 

Lots of love! 

Jillian 


Friday, September 20, 2013

Aurora Chasers

It's day 3 on this epic road trip home (well soon to be home). The first part of our journey was dedicated to the Aurora Borealis AKA Northern Lights. I, being the geek that I am, gave David and myself the name of "Aurora Chasers". We finally finished packing our things, packing them into the car, and left Seward. We headed north and landed for our first night in Talkeetna. We walked around the cute little town for just a bit and then went to my family's lakeside cabin. They were not there, but gave us permission to hike into the property and camp and use firepit. So we did! We parked the subby in the driveway and hiked the mile (yes, their driveway is a mile long!) and began to set up camp. David started the fire using flint (show off!) and made dinner using our camp stove! First nights menu was wild salmon tomato basil camping dish from REI (it actually was really tasty with crackers), but we still hungry so we also had some super yummy tortilla soup! After dinner we got to see two bald eagles soar together right in front of us! It was so amazibg! I set up the tent and sleeping bags and sitting by the fire for a bit headed to bed. I had some bear-anoia (paranoia of bears) for a little bit but changed to wolf-anoia when we heard wolves from the other side of the lake howling at the full moon. Looking back, it was actually super awesome to hear them and were lucky we did! At first I didn't think I'd make it through the night because I was so cold, but after some tears, complaining, and sweet David giving me some of his clothes I managed to dose off for a bit! We woke up, made some tea, and packed up to get back to the car because we are freezing! 

Our car studded with everything we own! 

          Evening walk in Talkeetna! 

Making a fire! 

       Cooking our salmon dinner. 

We spent the next few hours driving north to Fairbanks! It took us a lot longer than expected because of a lot of road construction, but we made it none the less. After wandering around town for a bit we tried to devise a game plan on where to go and how to see the northern lights. We had originally planned to camp outside the city (because you can better see the auroras outside the lights of the city). However, when we arrived in Fairbanks, it was just over 30 degrees. I had a breakdown...I froze the night before in 40 degrees and I really didnt think I could make it in 30 degree weather...even if we were car camping. So after some patience by David as I freaked out, we found ourselves heading out to Chene Hot Spring, about 50 miles outside of Fairbanks. We got a little dry cabin to stay in to keep us warm and decided to go for a soak in the hot springs. 

Turns out soaking in hot springs was EXACTLY what we needed. I stayed in for about 2 hours letting the hot water melt away any worries. It felt so good on my soar muscles and helped me relax a bit! We headed back to the cabin, brushed our teeth and got ready for bed. As I was settin my alarm to get up during a few times during the night to look for the northern lights, David runs in and says "come here!". I throw my shoes on and my sweater and ran outside! 

BOOM! There they were! To the north, over a mountain gleaming a faint green. They started off small but began to move a little across the sky. We jumped in the car to drive to a better viewing point. Once we found one, we got out of the. At a d just stood in awe. I stood there thinking that I couldn't believe I finally was seeing them! There they were dancing in th mountain. I almost imagined them as the moved like a slow rolling wave that it was Alaska's way of waving good-bye to me and giving me a blessing for the road trip ahead. I was so full of happiness as they became dim and we drove back to our cabin. 

We were SO lucky to have seen them last night! We had a number of factors against us, overcast forecast, full moon, and tree coverage. But we got to see them despite all that and that's all I could ask for!! It was the cherry on top of all my Alaskan experiences, full of magic and beauty!

Cabin owners dog we played with for a bit this morning! 

We are currently on the Great Alaskan Hwy (AlCan) heading for the Canadian border. As we drive, we are getting sprinkles of snow mixed with sunshine. All the trees are in full fall beauty, radiating beautiful oranges, yellows, greens and reds! 



I'm havig a great time (especially after sleeping in a warm cabin which I am so extremely grateful for!) and our next big stop is Jasper where we hope to meet up with our friend Carl! 

Mom & all those beautiful people who worry about me- we're driving safe, have plenty of gas, etc. ;)

P.S-sorry for any typos or grammar errors, this post was written from my small iPhone! :) 

Til next time! 

Lots of love!

Jillian 

Sunday, September 15, 2013

End of Summer fun!


The last few weeks have flown by! They have been action packed as summer in Alaska comes to an end for me.  The end of the summer was amazing! My aunt and uncle came to visit and it was so good to see them! They are like a second set of parents to me and it was really neat to show them around Seward and what I’ve been up to all summer (even if it rained the whole time they were here!). After spending a few days in Seward, we headed up to Anchorage and Talkeenta and spent time with family watching football games on 70 inch TVS and then in the woods at their cabin. My family’s cabin in Talkeenta is such a gem! It sits on 50-something acres right on a beautiful lake with Mt. McKinley shining beautifully in the background. We spend 2 days up there hanging out, kayaking, BBQ-ing, and playing with my cousins two young kids who are adorable. I could of spent the whole summer at this cabin, no cell reception; beautiful scenery….it was a slice of paradise! It was so great to spend time with my family up here in Alaska and I feel so blessed to have done so! After a beautiful, fun weekend we had to say good-bye and I drove back down to Seward to finish off a few weeks of work at Exit Glacier Guides.

Patio at the cabin!

Goofing off with my Grandma! 

Uncle Ray and Aunt Jeri

View from the cabin!

The last few weeks of work were pretty slow, but were fun nonetheless! As a team, we had some pretty epic pizza nights where mine and the Silver Sherpa’s pizza was given “Pizza of the summer” award (roasted garlic chicken, red caramelized onions, fresh tzaziki, red cherry tomatoes, and summer squash!). There were also a few days where Captain Crampon and I sat around drinking margaritas at noon and eating chips and salsa at the office. But the best part about finishing up the season with Exit Glacier Guides was Guide Trip. Guide Trip is an end of the season tradition that they have where all the guides (and office girl) go on trip all together to celebrate the season and hang out! The fun part of it was that it was a mystery until a few nights before! A couple nights before we were to leave, we had a shop meeting to discuss our trip. Captain Crampon, told us we were going to Harriman Fjords, which is a 2-hour water taxi outside Whittier (an hour-ish drive from Seward). He warned us it would be raining the whole time, but we all still wanted to go and get after it! We all spent the night at the shop and got a 4am wake up call and were out of the house by 4:30. We drove to Whittier, got to the water taxi where the captain informed us of the extreme weather conditions of wind and rain. He proceeded to as “Are you sure you want to do this?” three very serious times and off we went. I was nervous to say the least because I really had no idea what I was getting into, but I was ready at the same time to push my comfort zones a bit! And boy was I correct…

We get onto the boat at 7:30am and crack open beers (in Exit Glacier Guide style) and are instructed by the captain to chug them because once we got out of the harbor “we’d break out teeth”. So they chugged them. Nothing like an Alaskan IPA to replace your morning cup of coffee... Captain was right, as soon as we left the harbor, it was the most extreme weather, 4 foot swells, boats flopping and blowing all over the place. I came out of my seat a few times getting suspended in the air as the boat jumped waves. After the initial freak out wore off, it became kind of fun. Half way through the boat ride the captain informed us that other boats tried to go where we were headed and all had to turn around because the waves were 4 times bigger than what we were experiencing. So we changed our location to Blackstone Bay, a secluded bay surrounded by glaciers. After about a half hour longer of braving the waves, we arrived at our location and I felt like were on some sort of military mission. All of us got off the boat except Ryan and formed a line. Ryan started handing off all the gear, food, etc. And with in 10 minutes the boat was unloaded and leaving us. For a moment I thought “Here’s my chance to change my mind…I can go home to my warm dry bed…”But I thought, this experience is probably good for me”, so as Gail force winds blew and rain poured we teamed up and built our camp. Tarps were hung, tents were set up, trees were climbed, and a lot of team work happened (most of the time I sort of stood back amazed at these wonderful people making this shelter happen)…then by noon, we were all snug in the big dry tent (which we brought to use a dry room and hang out place) with a beer in hand. We hung out all day in that thing as the 40 mile an hour winds howled and blew. A few times they knocked over our structure, so we all piled out and made some adjustments to help keep our shelter sustainable and intact. After a few more hours and few drinking games later it was dinnertime! I was expecting to be eating trail mix and granola bars the whole time, but nope! Our food menu for the trip included grilled salmon with pineapple teriyaki quinoa, blueberry pancakes, halibut burritos, and scrambles. We ate like kings!

After the first day and getting used to the weather (and having brief moments of panic and feelings like I couldn’t do this…ok…I even devised a plan to tell everyone I had to go home for a second there…) I made it through the night, howling winds, pouring rains and all! I woke up feeling like Bear Grill or some wild woman warrior and was ready to take on whatever was next. In the morning we completely changed our shelter structure to make it more efficient and stable. There was a little break in the rain (and when I say break , I mean it went from monsoon to just raining). So we jumped in the kayaks and paddled for about 7ish miles. We paddled along the most beautiful scenery including 2 tidewater glaciers and the biggest waterfall I’ve ever seen! We paddled next to curious seals, snuggly otters, and through fields of icebergs. It was the most amazing beautiful this I’ve seen in Alaska yet! The sights, the sounds, the company was all so amazing. Then the monsoon started again after paddling for a bit, so we paddled fast back to base camp. I was completely drenched and freezing so I ran to the tent to suit up in dry clothes and once I was all dry headed to the big tent to sit snuggly and chill. We waited out the rest of the night telling stories and eating amazing halibut burritos.

View from base camp!

Massive tidewater glacier!

Kayaking! 

Biggest Waterfall I've ever seen!

The gang after 3 days...all smiles! :)


The next morning when we woke up, it was a miracle! The winds had stopped and it was SUNNY! Within a few minutes, we were suited up and on the glacier. We hiked around for a few hours on the glacier and found a good spot to do some ice climbing. It was awesome! We all had moments of realization of “Where are we?” and we ice climbed and hung out on some remote glacier. We were in awe! After spending some time of the glacier, we ran off, packed up base camp and set our camp chairs along the beach to wait for the boat. We all had a moment of feeling like warriors. As we sat their with our beer in hand, sun shining on our faces, we felt victorious for having made it through such rough and crazy weather and having a BLAST while doing so! I couldn’t of imagined camping in those conditions with any other people.

Waiting for the water taxi.

Another group shot!

Sun setting on the shop...what an AMAZING summer!
The people I worked with this summer are some of the most inspiring and good-hearted people I’ve ever met. They love the outdoors and adventure and good times guides their hearts. They’ve helped inspire me to be more confident in my abilities and inspired adventure within myself! I feel so grateful I met them this summer and now have friends to look forward to seeing next summer!

After we got back from the trip, we had a few tasks at the shop to do, like cleaning and sharpening crampons then we were done! I said my good-bye’s to Exit Glacier Guides (till next summer) and headed back to our place on Nash Road (which has it’s own blog coming….)

Only thing left to do this summer, is pack up the rest of our things, jump in the car, and drive 3,000 miles back down to the lower 48 and set up a home in Northern Idaho….not without a few adventures first! On the list, Talkeenta, Fairbanks, Jasper, and BANFF!

However, as I’m sitting in a pile of boxes, dishes, and belongings, I will have to post another blog about all those things…More to come, now to pack!

Blessings and love!!

Jillian

P.S-Thanks Nathan Lane for all the pictures...check out his photography!!! :)